It’s now November 2020. I took the bus out for the first time last week. Although the brakes seem to stop me I have still have 4 problems with them:

1. They still feel spongy, however, I have never driven a Bus before so I literally have no point of reference whatsoever.
2. The rear brakes are still binding a little, so, more precise set-up needed.
3. The handbrake does not latch on until about 10 clicks, this should be no more than 6.
4. The brake lights do not work at all.

So, I have written a post regards to my initial install, however, I thought this time around I would be a little more concise. Most of the time I write these posts as a point of reference for myself, so when I need to revisit an issue I know what I changed and what potential mistakes I made. Over the last 2 years my experience and confidence levels have dramatically increased with the Bus rebuild and it’s always useful to share my mistakes so others don’t make them.

So, this time around I am going to break the testing down into the 4 main braking circuits that I need to deal with. Get them all working individually and then getting them working in unison without it affecting the drive of the vehicle i.e. binding on any of the circuits. I would categorise the main circuits as follows (again this is for my reference and not that of a mechanic!):

1. Front Brakes – Unassisted.
2. Rear Brakes – Unassisted.
3. The above with Servo.
4. Handbrake.

As a prerequisite to the above, I want to explain my starting point here. I have replaced all of the main components in all of the braking circuits consisting of the following:

1. Full front brake replacement including pads, calipers and discs.
2. Servo.
3. Full rear brake replacement including shoes, spring kits, calipers, backplates, star adjusters.
4. All lines.
5. Master cylinder (which I bench bled prior to Bus install) and both reservoirs, caps and pipes.

So my process is going to be methodical with each stage of testing completed before I move onto the next. I have decided that I am going to get the electrical element tested before I move onto the mechanical elements. My logic for this is as follows:

1. The bus brake switches are Pressure Switches that are attached to the M/C. They are connected to a 12V cct via the Fuse Box and the Rear Light Clusters. The lights will only ignite if there is the requisite pressure in the M/C as a result of the Pedal Push. So if I have lights, it would make sense that I have pressure.
2. I will be doing all work by myself, so if I can see the lights come on its a great visual indication that I still have brake pressure as I build the 2 main brake ccts up.

OK, so the theory that I have come up with here to get this running is as follows:

1. Have I got the correct switches in the bus? Now, the bus that I have has a two 3 pole switches that in turn connect to the Front and Rear ccts. Unlike modern vehicle the M/C treats these as individual ccts opposed to connecting the L/H Front to the R/H Rear. Why 3 Poles, The USA buses have a dash indication for when there is no pressure in the cct. RESULT – In my bus this has been removed. So I have changed the 3 pole switches for 2 pole switches. This means one less thing to go wrong.
2. Investigate if there is a relay in the cct – if this is faulty we are not going to have brake lights. RESULT –
3. My first test here is simple, disconnect the leads from the switches and connect together, ensure that the key is turned, in theory I should have lights. RESULT –
4. Next reconnect the leads after turning off the bus. Plug the M/C Front & Rear ccts and pump the brake pedal a couple of times to ensure you have pressure. Turn the key. You should have lights. It is important at this stage that you now test each of the individual ccts in turn to ensure that both can work independently of each other. RESULT –
5. We now know we have brake lights.
6. As a side note/experiment I wanted to play around with the connecting rod from the pedal to the Servo. I want to see how the adjustment to the connecting rod i.e. shortening and lengthening the rod engages/disengages pressure in the M/C. My theory here is that the P/O has messed about here and I have no idea of what the ideal adjustment should be. I am GUESSING that if I lengthen the rod until the brake lights engage I have pressure and in theory we are beginning to brake the bus. If I now shortening by a turn or so my pedal should be in a place where I engage at the optimum point in the push down – this way I know that when I connect the brake ccts back to the M/C any further travel is pressure loss to each cct, probably due to air. RESULT –

OK, the next step for me is going to be the Front Brakes. My choice here is simply based on the following:

1. Bentley advises bleeding this first.
2. They are discs and therefore self adjusting so no heartache to get them doing what they should do.
3. I have the bus jacked up at the front so saves a little time.

The following part of testing and rebuild is as follows:

1. Spin both wheels to ensure that they move freely before beginning. RESULT –
2. Attach the front brake cct and observe for leaks.
3. Remove rear brake light connection.
4. Bleed Passenger Side Brake (this is the furthest from the M/C). RESULT –
5. Bleed Driver Side Brake (this is the closest to the M/C). RESULT –
6. Press pedal and test for braking pressure. You know whether this feels right or not. Ensure the engine is off, otherwise, the Servo will give you a different feel to braking. You should also see the Brake Lights engage. RESULT –
7. At this point you are going to need somebody to press the pedal in the bus, while you spin the wheel. It should solid on both sides. RESULT –
8. You now have Brake Lights and Front Brakes working. RESULT –
9. Reconnect the rear electrical wiring and disconnect the fronts. Move onto the Rear Brakes.